the powder room

A leisurely jetlag-induced start sees us planning to organise the rest of the week. A pleasant ‘light and nice’ breakfast, then off to get bus tickets, ACAP permits and Swayambunath – the monkey temple.

Nepali protest

After finding the ACAP office closed and relocated to the Nepal Tourism Board, we asked for directions, didn’t quite understand, but set-off confidently, only to get caught in a demonstration of some sort. Blue camouflage-clad police with feeble riot shields and bamboo sticks scuffled rather than clashed with protesters. A lot of walking in midday heat eventually revealed the ACAP office where we were told that we needed more passport photos. A rather dusty and smelly walk in the blazing sun led us to a small photo lab, but not before a ‘helpful’ local ushered us into his place, tried to charge double and stole my one remaining photo. We were getting tired and irritable at this point, so were greatly relieved to finally receive our passes and TIMS cards.

Monkeys watching knackered tourists

Lunch at Ganesh, then a pleasant stroll to Swayambunath, the monkey temple. It was getting late in the day and the long wobbly staircase was a bit daunting, but greeted by energetic monkeys and with steady progress, we climbed up. Turned out to be perfect timing as the sun slowly set over Kathmandu – spectacular views and a beautifully peaceful place, in spite of the tourists and screaming kids.

Multicoloured prayer flags rippling in the breeze. Gentle warmth of a setting sun lighting up the stupa, bringing colours to life, radiating energy before fading to a dull blue and slinking into the night.

Sunset over Kathmandu

Prayer flags at dusk - the wind carries the prayers to the heavens

Dusk from Swayambunath

Colourful saris for sale

Wandered the streets of Thamel down toward Durbar Square. Very familiar feel and smell. Touristy Thamel with its constant calls and invites gave way to narrower streets with intriguing facades of withered splendour. Religion permeates the streets with shrines everywhere. No real hassle from anyone and very pleasant vibe.

Newari carving

Holy Cow

Durbar Square is really two squares, packed full of shrines and people. A rest from the relentless sun to enjoy some people watching. Beautiful carved Newari buildings that remind me of Indonesia and a little chess set that we have. Strange mix of sadhus, a 5-legged cow, pigeons, fat Americans, svelte locals, eager hawkers and some very out of place teenage girls. It was here that I began to notice the amount of stares we were drawing and was asked the question that has plagued me since – “are you Japanese?”.

Kumari Bahal

Looking over Durbar Square

Wandered over to the Kumari Bahal where the living goddess, the Kumari, lives with her family from about 3/4 until she reaches puberty. A beautifully serene courtyard with intricate wooden carving all round. Another retreat from the sun found us on the steps of the Maju Deval watching the ballet of traffic, cows, sadhus and tourists. Three gorgeous but filthy kids repeatedly pose for photos so they can ask for money and the perpetual angst of whether to give or not. Sheer humanity says it’s only a few pence and means more to them than me, but the behaviour it reinforces and dependency it creates coupled with a basic resistance to being treated as a cash machine generally results in a curt no thank you and ignoring their continued presence.

Garden of Dreams

Momos. Mmmmmm!!!

More wandering leads us to Freak Street and the Ganesh restaurant where I get my first taste of momos. Meandering back to the hotel takes us past Rani Pokhari where we witness a violent argument between a woman and man that draws a small crowd, but ends soon after.

Contrasted by the tranquil Garden of Dreams, where we relax and watch the world go by. Beautiful niches, secluded corners and a bamboo swing provide a calming end to our first real day in Kathmandu. Arriving back in Thamel, we’re too late for most places and settle for Korean food again.

Friday 31 October 2008

Leaving the UK was a bit of a rush as usual, cramming far too much stuff into my bag and heading for the airport. Tube was crammed, how and smelly – irritating schoolkids on the way to Heathrow – glad to be leaving it all behind. Check-in was smooth and flew in a brand new A380 – didn’t sleep much on the way, largely cos I was watching films.

Himalayas - 'The Abode of Snow'

Flying over wrinkled landscapes of green that gave way to deep folds and pretty terracing. I was scanning for mountains and suddenly realised that the long line of cloud on the horizon was in fact the Himalayas. Descent into Kathmandu skimming villages perched on impossibly steep hillsides and touch down.

The arrival hall was surprisingly pleasant, very calm and ordered. There were long queues, but the time passed quickly. The only downside was no promised pick-up from the hotel. After a slightly fraught conversation with some guy that left me feeling that I was about to be hustled, I was bundled into a taxi and whisked off into Kathmandu.

Landing at Kathmandu

First reactions? Not dissimilar to parts of Malaysia, dirty bumpy roads, food stalls, people, sheep, goats and dogs everywhere. Horns blaring, no real traffic rules. Strangely familiar.

An exhausted arrival at the calming Courtyard Hotel, greeted by Pujan and Michelle and a bottle of Everest. Introduced to others, David, a semi-retired Brit who had been evacuated from Makalu after a persistent cold. Convalescing at Courtyard and doing odd jobs around the place. Sofie, Portugese hotel owner who had guided in Verbier. She and her husband had designed and built The Castle in Pokhara.

After relaxing into arrival, headed to the Comfort Zone for some Korean lunch. M arrived just as my bibimbap did. Very quickly felt at home.